Key takeaways
- Wait until the soil has firmed up. Working wet clay compacts it.
- Clear debris first, then beds, then edges, then mow.
- Cut back perennials and ornamental grasses before new growth gets tall.
- Set the mower high for the first cut and keep the blade sharp.
- Mulch after beds are cleaned and edged, not before.
When to start
In Southwest Ohio, spring arrives in fits. A warm week in March can be followed by a hard freeze, and the ground often stays wet well into April. The right start is not a date. It is the moment the soil is no longer soggy and the grass has begun to green.
Use a simple test. Press your heel into the lawn. If the ground squishes or leaves a deep print, it is too wet. Clay soil holds water and, when walked on or raked hard while saturated, it packs down and squeezes out the air roots need. A week of dry weather usually makes the difference.
A few light jobs, like picking up fallen sticks, can happen earlier. Save the heavier raking, bed work and edging for when the ground has firmed up.
Debris and dead growth
Begin with the large material. Walk the yard and pick up branches, twigs and anything that blew in over winter. Winter storms in this part of Ohio bring down more limbs than people expect, especially from older mature trees. Small branches go in the yard waste. Large limbs, or anything still hanging in a tree, are not a do-it-yourself job. Falling wood is dangerous, and limbs near power lines need a professional.
Next, cut back last year's growth. Ornamental grasses are usually cut down to a few inches before new blades come up. Perennials with dead stalks get trimmed back to the base. Do this before new shoots get tall, so you do not cut off fresh growth.
Rake matted leaves off the lawn and out of the beds. Wet leaves left in place can smother grass and shelter slugs and disease. A light, springy rake works better than a stiff one, since it pulls debris without tearing up tender new grass.
Beds and edging
Once the debris is out, the beds can be cleaned up. Pull winter weeds while the soil is still soft and roots come out easily. Remove leaves and old mulch that has matted down. If last year's mulch is still loose and fluffy, you can rake it up and reuse it. If it is thick and crusted, take some of it out so water and air can get to the soil.
Re-cut the bed edges to give the border a clean line. A flat spade or a half-moon edger works best, cut at a slight angle so the edge holds. Edges are easiest to cut when the soil is damp but not wet.
After the beds are cleaned and edged, add fresh mulch. Two to three inches is enough, and it should not be piled against tree trunks or shrub stems. Mulch placed against bark holds moisture there and invites rot and pests. If you want help with the volume, see mulch installation.
This is also a good time to check shrubs for winter damage. Branches that are brown and brittle can be cut back. Hold off on shrubs that bloom in spring, such as lilac and forsythia, until after they flower.
The first mow
The first mow of the year is mostly a tidy-up. Wait until the grass is actively growing and dry enough that the mower does not leave ruts. Sharpen the blade beforehand. A dull blade tears the grass and leaves ragged brown tips.
Set the deck high. For tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass, three inches or a little more is a good starting height. Do not scalp the lawn to remove winter brown. Cutting too short weakens the grass and gives weeds room to take hold. If the grass has grown long, take off about a third at a time and mow again a few days later.
If you plan to put down a crabgrass preventer, timing matters. It needs to be on before crabgrass seed germinates, which is often when soil temperatures reach about 55 degrees. Follow the product label. A lawn care program can handle timing if you would rather not track it. If mowing itself is the part you want off your list, lawn mowing service is available.
What to leave for later
Not everything belongs in the first week. Overseeding is generally better done in early fall, when soil is warm and summer heat is not coming. Spring-seeded grass often struggles by July.
Hold off on pruning most spring-flowering shrubs until after bloom. Wait on tender plants and annuals until the last frost has passed, since a late freeze can hit this region well into spring.
Leave major tree work, retaining wall repairs and anything involving digging to the right person. Call 811 before digging for new plantings or posts so buried utilities are marked. For the whole year in one place, see the seasonal yard calendar.
Frequently asked questions
Can I do a spring cleanup too early?
Yes. Working on saturated clay compacts it and can tear up tender new grass. Wait until the ground has firmed up and a heel print is shallow. Picking up sticks earlier is fine, but save raking and bed work for dry conditions.
Should I remove all the old mulch before adding new?
Usually not. If old mulch is loose, rake it up and top it off. If it has matted or crusted, remove some so water can reach the soil. Keep total depth to two or three inches and pull it back from stems and trunks.
When should I cut back ornamental grasses?
Cut them down to a few inches in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins. Waiting too long makes it hard to trim without cutting the fresh blades.
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